Are Runways Still Worth the Investment?

Fashion shows have long been synonymous with glamour and spectacle. They serve as a platform for designers to unveil their latest collections to an audience of buyers, influencers, celebrities, and industry insiders. Yet, as the fashion landscape evolves, the relevance and financial viability of these extravagant productions are increasingly under scrutiny.

Hosting a fashion show is an expensive endeavour. A major show during Fashion Week can cost anywhere from $200,000 to over $1 million. These expenses include venue rental, model fees, production design, marketing, and PR. Additional costs, such as flying in editors, influencers, and VIP clients, can significantly increase the budget. For emerging designers, these figures represent a daunting financial commitment with uncertain returns.

Despite the cost, brands continue to stage fashion shows for several reasons:

  1. Buzz and Visibility
    Fashion shows generate media coverage and social media engagement, offering brands an opportunity to amplify their visibility. A well-executed show can become a cultural moment, solidifying a designer’s artistic vision and reinforcing brand identity.
  2. Storytelling and Exclusivity
    Runway shows offer a unique way to tell a story. Beyond just showcasing clothing, they create an immersive experience that connects emotionally with audiences. For luxury brands, the exclusivity of a live event aligns with their image and justifies premium pricing.
  3. Industry Networking
    For buyers and editors, fashion shows remain essential for viewing collections up close, making purchasing decisions, and fostering industry connections. The tactile and visual experience of seeing garments in motion can’t be fully replicated online.

The rise of digital marketing and the disruptions of the COVID-19 pandemic have transformed how brands approach fashion presentations. Virtual shows, livestreams, digital lookbooks, and Instagram drops have emerged as cost-effective alternatives. These formats are globally accessible, significantly cheaper, and can reach broader audiences.

However, digital formats often lack the sensory and emotional impact of live events. The excitement of a physical runway show, combined with the ability to see fabrics, movement, and craftsmanship in person, remains invaluable to industry professionals.

The Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show (VSFS) illustrates the changing dynamics of runway shows. Once an annual spectacle blending high fashion and pop culture, the VSFS was suspended in 2019 amid criticism of its lack of diversity and declining TV viewership.

After a four-year hiatus, the show returned in September 2023 as a reimagined “Victoria’s Secret World Tour,” incorporating diverse global creatives and narratives. Rather than a traditional runway, it featured a docu-style format with cinematic elements, blending fashion with storytelling and reaching audiences through streaming platforms. The shift demonstrated how iconic brands can adapt their presentations to align with contemporary values and digital consumption habits. Public reaction was divided, with some applauding its fresh approach and commitment to inclusivity, while others remained sceptical about the brand’s ability to truly modernise its values.

The high costs of runway shows make them a significant investment, but for many brands, they remain a cornerstone of their marketing strategy. Moving forward, a hybrid model is likely to dominate. Physical shows will persist for moments of high impact, offering the exclusivity and emotional resonance that digital formats lack. Meanwhile, digital presentations will continue to grow, offering accessibility, sustainability, and cost savings.

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