Upon writing a previous blog article, I stumbled across a topic that has been difficult to shake: the exploitation of Syrian refugees in Turkey’s garment industry. It’s a story that intertwines migration, geopolitics, and the fast-paced demands of the fashion world—yet one that I had never fully encountered, despite my ongoing interest in sustainability and ethics within the industry. Naturally, I had to dig deeper. What fuels this issue? How extensive is the problem? And most importantly, what can be done to address this crisis that sits at the intersection of human rights and fashion?

To understand the problem, it’s essential to first consider why Turkey plays such a central role. Geography and history have positioned it as a key transit point for migration, sitting at the crossroads of Europe, Asia, and the Middle East. Its proximity to Syria has made it a primary destination for those fleeing the devastating Syrian Civil War, which began in 2011 and has displaced millions. Today, Turkey hosts approximately 3.6 million Syrian refugees, making it the country with the largest refugee population in the world. This is no small burden for any nation, especially one grappling with its own economic challenges.

For many Syrian refugees, survival in Turkey means finding work, and the garment industry—a cornerstone of Turkey’s economy—offers an apparent lifeline. The country is a major player in global fashion production, supplying goods to some of the largest brands in the world. With its high demand for labour, the sector might seem like a natural fit for refugees desperate to earn a living. But the reality is far from ideal. The garment industry often preys on vulnerability, and for Syrian refugees, this translates into long hours, abysmal wages, and unsafe conditions.

The statistics are staggering. While only about 3,000 Syrian refugees in Turkey have official work permits, estimates suggest that between 250,000 and 400,000 are employed informally in the garment sector. Working without legal status means these individuals are excluded from Turkey’s labour protections. They are often paid well below the legal minimum wage—sometimes as little as half—making it nearly impossible for them to provide for their families. Without legal standing, they have no recourse to report abusive working conditions, which include unsafe environments, exploitation, and even allegations of child labour or harassment. This lack of protection leaves them vulnerable, trapped in a system that offers little hope for improvement.

For those of us sitting thousands of miles away, browsing online sales or admiring the latest collections in-store, it’s easy to overlook the human cost behind the clothes we wear. The complexity of global supply chains makes it difficult to track every stage of production, even for well-meaning brands. Subcontracting practices further muddy the waters, as primary suppliers often pass work onto smaller factories without the direct oversight of the brands commissioning the work. This opacity creates a breeding ground for unethical practices, where vulnerable workers like Syrian refugees bear the brunt of the system’s failures.

But this issue isn’t simply a matter of corporate oversight; it’s a systemic challenge requiring multi-layered solutions. Brands have a critical role to play, beginning with transparency. Conducting thorough audits of supply chains is not just a box-ticking exercise—it’s about uncovering the hidden layers where exploitation thrives. Third-party certifications and partnerships with NGOs can provide additional scrutiny and accountability. However, audits alone are insufficient. To create meaningful change, companies must commit to long-term investments in their supply chains, prioritising the well-being of workers over profit margins.

Policy intervention is another essential piece of the puzzle. Turkey’s current approach to refugee labour leaves too many gaps, allowing informal and exploitative work to flourish. Expanding access to work permits for refugees could transform their prospects, enabling them to secure fair wages and legal protections. This would not only benefit the workers themselves but also elevate the industry as a whole, setting a higher standard for ethical production. For this to happen, international support is crucial. Governments, trade unions, and organisations must collaborate to support Turkey in implementing these reforms, recognising that the refugee crisis is a global responsibility.

As consumers, we also hold significant power. By making informed decisions, we can support brands that prioritise ethical labour practices and demand accountability from those that don’t. Platforms like the Fashion Revolution Transparency Index offer valuable insights into which companies are making genuine efforts to ensure fair and sustainable practices. Choosing quality over quantity, supporting smaller, ethical brands, or buying second-hand are small but meaningful steps we can take to counteract the exploitative nature of fast fashion.

The exploitation of Syrian refugees in Turkey’s garment sector is not an isolated issue—it’s a symptom of a larger problem within the fashion industry. An industry built on rapid production and low costs often fails to account for the human lives caught in the machinery. The crisis forces us to confront uncomfortable questions: How much are we willing to sacrifice for cheap, disposable fashion? And what responsibility do we bear, as consumers, to demand better?

This is a topic I plan to explore further, as it reveals so much about the hidden costs of the clothes we wear. Fashion has the power to uplift and inspire, but it must not come at the expense of human rights and dignity. Solving these issues will require collaboration across governments, brands, and individuals. While the road ahead is long and complex, raising awareness is the first step toward meaningful change. Because if we truly value sustainability in fashion, it must encompass not only environmental responsibility but also the fair treatment of the people who make it possible.