The Aztec Empire, centred in what is now Mexico, was a civilisation deeply rooted in ritual, hierarchy, and artistry, and its fashion reflected these values. Clothing in the Aztec Empire was far more than just functional—it was a visual language of social status, identity, and even spiritual significance. The textiles, designs, and adornments worn by the Aztecs spoke volumes about their roles within society and their connection to the world around them.

Cotton and maguey (a type of agave) were the primary materials used in Aztec clothing, with their availability often tied to social class. Cotton, a soft and luxurious fabric, was reserved for the nobility, while maguey fibres, coarser and more utilitarian, were commonly used by farmers and labourers. These distinctions underscored the rigid hierarchy of Aztec society, where one’s attire was both a reflection of their status and a reinforcement of societal norms.

For men, the basic garment was the maxtlatl, a loincloth, often paired with a cloak called a tilma. The tilma varied widely in decoration, depending on the wearer’s rank. Nobles and warriors wore tilmas woven from cotton and adorned with intricate embroidery, featuring geometric patterns or symbols that identified their accomplishments or lineage. Commoners’ tilmas were simpler, made of maguey fibre and dyed in more subdued tones.

Women typically wore a huipil, a sleeveless tunic, or a cueitl, a wraparound skirt, paired with a short blouse. As with men’s clothing, the decoration and materials of these garments signified status. Upper-class women wore finely woven cotton garments dyed with vibrant, natural pigments derived from plants, insects, and minerals. Cochineal, a red dye made from insects, and indigo were especially prized for their rich hues. These dyes were not just aesthetic choices but also symbols of wealth and access to rare resources.

Jewellery and adornments were integral to Aztec fashion, with gold, silver, jade, and turquoise being the most prized materials. Necklaces, earrings, and bracelets were worn by the elite, often crafted into intricate designs that symbolised religious or cultural motifs. Jade, considered more valuable than gold, was particularly revered for its green colour, associated with fertility and renewal. Feathers, another essential element of Aztec adornment, were used to create elaborate headdresses and capes. The feathers of the quetzal bird, vibrant green and highly sought after, were reserved for the emperor and the nobility.

Footwear was another indicator of social rank. Commoners wore simple sandals made from woven agave fibres, while nobles donned more elaborate versions, sometimes embellished with leather or adorned with gold and decorative stitching. The distinction between classes extended even to the feet, a subtle yet telling marker of the rigid divisions within Aztec society.

The Aztecs also used fashion as a medium to reflect their deeply spiritual worldview. Clothing and adornments were often tied to religious ceremonies and cosmic beliefs. Warriors, for example, wore costumes and helmets designed to evoke powerful animals like jaguars and eagles, symbolising strength and divine favour. Priests, on the other hand, dressed in sombre robes often dyed black, symbolising their role as intermediaries between the earthly and the divine.

The influence of trade and tribute further shaped Aztec fashion. As the empire expanded, it absorbed goods and materials from conquered regions. Tribute records from the time list fabrics, dyes, and feathers sent to Tenochtitlan, the Aztec capital, contributing to the empire’s vibrant and diverse textile culture. This exchange enriched the variety of garments available to the elite while reinforcing the power dynamics of the empire’s expansive network.

Clothing laws, or sumptuary laws, strictly governed who could wear what. These laws ensured that only nobles could access the finest materials and dyes, preventing commoners from emulating the appearance of higher classes. Violations of these laws were taken seriously, underscoring how deeply clothing was tied to social control within Aztec society.

Aztec fashion was not static or isolated. It evolved through trade, conquest, and cultural exchange, creating a complex system of dress that was both functional and symbolic. Each garment and adornment carried meaning, connecting the wearer to their role within a vast and ordered society.