In recent years, the rise of resale platforms like Depop, Vinted, and eBay has sparked excitement in the sustainability conversation. These platforms have given second-hand clothing a trendy new image, with many hailing resale as the answer to fast fashion’s environmental impact. While it’s true that buying pre-loved clothing is a step in the right direction, it’s a mistake to think that resale alone can fix fast fashion’s sustainability issues. The reality is far more complex, and relying solely on resale could even risk masking the deeper problems that lie within the industry.

Let’s start with the positives. Resale has undeniably changed how we think about our wardrobes. It’s no longer considered outdated or uncool to buy second-hand; in fact, it’s often seen as a badge of honour among the eco-conscious and fashion-forward. The second-hand market is booming, and projections suggest it could even outpace fast fashion’s growth within the next decade. For consumers who are eager to reduce their environmental footprint, shopping from resale platforms is a way to extend the life cycle of garments and reduce waste.

However, while the idea of a circular economy is promising, resale isn’t as straightforward a solution as it might seem. The fast fashion industry’s issues run much deeper than what resale can tackle, and in some cases, resale may even perpetuate the problem.

One of the biggest reasons why resale won’t single-handedly fix fast fashion’s problems is because it doesn’t address the root cause: overproduction. Fast fashion brands like Zara, H&M, and Shein churn out new collections at a dizzying pace, flooding the market with cheap, low-quality clothing designed to be worn only a handful of times before being discarded. Even if these garments find a second life through resale, it doesn’t slow down the rate at which they’re being produced in the first place.

As long as fast fashion brands continue to overproduce and consumers keep buying into the trend cycle, the fundamental problem of waste remains. Resale might give these items a temporary home, but it doesn’t stop the relentless cycle of production and disposal that lies at the heart of fast fashion’s environmental impact.

A crucial factor often overlooked in the resale debate is the quality of fast fashion garments themselves. The reality is that these pieces are not made to last. Poor construction, low-quality materials, and disposable designs mean that many fast fashion items simply aren’t durable enough to survive multiple owners. While some higher-quality items may enjoy a longer life span, a vast majority of the clothing produced by fast fashion brands isn’t built to withstand more than a few wears, let alone multiple cycles of resale.

This creates a troubling paradox: even as the resale market grows, the quality of the items available is often low, which means that their potential to truly offset new purchases is limited. In other words, you can only resell a flimsy polyester dress so many times before it ends up in a landfill.

Another concern is that the rise of resale may inadvertently fuel greenwashing by fast fashion brands. Many companies have jumped on the sustainability bandwagon, launching their own “pre-loved” initiatives or partnering with resale platforms. While this seems like a positive move, it often serves as a convenient way for these brands to market themselves as environmentally friendly without making any meaningful changes to their production practices.

The danger is that consumers might be lulled into a false sense of ethical satisfaction by participating in resale, believing they’re contributing to a sustainable solution while continuing to support brands that are, in reality, the root of the problem. This cycle perpetuates a culture of overconsumption, as people buy new items with the justification that they can always sell them later—a mindset that does little to curb the environmental damage caused by fast fashion.

While resale is a valuable piece of the puzzle, it’s not the silver bullet that many hope it to be. The fashion industry’s sustainability issues are systemic and require a much broader approach. To make a real difference, we need to look at reducing production volumes, improving garment quality, and shifting towards more sustainable materials. We also need stronger regulations to hold brands accountable for their environmental impact and labour practices.

Consumer behaviour plays a part too. We have to move away from the idea that buying more—whether it’s new or second-hand—is the answer. Embracing a slower approach to fashion, prioritising quality over quantity, and supporting brands that are genuinely committed to ethical practices are all crucial steps towards building a more sustainable fashion future.

Resale has undoubtedly reshaped the way we think about fashion consumption, making it easier and more appealing to choose second-hand options. But as beneficial as it is, it’s not enough to solve the deep-seated issues that plague the fast fashion industry. Without addressing the core problems of overproduction, poor garment quality, and the culture of disposability, we won’t see the significant changes that are necessary for a truly sustainable fashion industry.

The bottom line? Resale is a step in the right direction, but it’s not the final destination. For real progress, we need to reimagine the fashion industry from the ground up, challenging not just how we shop but how we think about clothing altogether.